Volos in central Greece is the city from which Jason and the Argonauts set sail in search of the Golden Fleece in the ancient Greek Mythological story. As with most such stories there is a strong element of truth and about five kilometres to the west of Volos, at Dimini, are the ruins of a Neolithic settlement first occupied in the fifth millennium BC. On a low rise, one can see the palace layout and nearby two well-preserved late Bronze Age large tholos or beehive tombs dating from the 13th century BC. This was almost certainly the site of Mycenaean Iolkos where Jason ruled. The Archaeological Museum in Volos, situated near the east end of the promenade, contains a fascinating display of Archaic and Classical graves. These give an insight into burial customs, funeral rites, offerings and grave goods. As well as important Mycenaean pottery finds there is on display the most beautiful pair of earrings that I have ever seen. Intricately formed in brilliant gold they are a pair of horse-drawn chariots dating from the 4th century BC. By following the coast road some twelve kilometres southeast from Volos to the village of Ano Lehonia you can find an almost secret, working little steam railway. Just off the main road is the charming railway station and engine sheds from where, at weekends in the summer, the little steam train runs fifteen kilometres up to the mountain village of Milies. To the sound of the whistle and a glorious puff of steam, the train leaves at 11.00am on its enchanting journey, or at least it did when we were there. If you are looking for somewhere to stay overnight in the area try the Hotel Pelion at Portaria, about six kilometres northeast from Volos up the main mountain road. The hotel is well appointed, situated off the main village square, and rooms cost a little less than a British motel.