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Sete & The Canal du Midi

by  Lois & Clive Edwards

Sète is the foremost fishing port on the French Mediterranean coast and the second biggest cargo port. Built on the slopes of Mont St Clair, and linked to the mainland by two sandbanks, the site has been inhabited since ancient times. Its development really took off when the port was chosen to be the starting point of the Canal des Deux Mers in 1666 which was the project to link the Mediterranean to the Atlantique, of which the Canal du Midi is part.

The port activity has been reinforced over the years and a huge amount of sea traffic goes through Sète. The fishing fleet brings daily cargoes of tuna, sardines, cod and sole etc (said to be 139 different varieties in total) and the daily fish market is a sight to be seen. The nautical base is used as a training centre for the America’s Cup. Sète is also the port of call for many cruise ships.

The town has gained the nickname the ‘ Languedocien Venice’ with 12 canals and as many bridges and is a melting pot of cultures and traditions. The good life seems to have suited many artists with painting and sculpture a part of everyday life.

Le Mont St Clair, the mountain of Sète, dominates the surrounding area, being 175 metres high. The easiest way up it is from the Naval cemetery via the Chemine Ste Clair to the Chapel Notre Dame de la Salette, an ancient blockhouse/pillbox from where the views are superb. The Tourist Office offers guided visits to experience the ‘criée (fish auction), and to explore the creative side of Sète, get to know its artists and museums or to trace its history along the colourful facades edging the canals. 

It’s possible to travel by boat from Sète to Beaucaire along the Canal du Rhone à Sète, with only one lock en-route. The entrance to the canal, which is difficult to spot, from the Etang du Thau is near Frontignan, and the route takes you past Palavas, Aigues-Mortes and Bellgarde.

www.boating-in-france.com

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