Gibraltar is the southernmost tip of the Spanish land mass. It is a towering chunk of rock dominating the entrance to the Mediterranean Sea and overlooking the busy Straits of Gibraltar. It is a most unusual mixture of Britishness contrasting with the kaleidoscope of inhabitants from many cultural backgrounds and a uniquely colourful way of life that results from this mix.
With the status of a British Crown Colony, the official language is English, but the Gibraltarians speak “Llantino”, a mixture of languages brought to Gibraltar over the centuries and built on a foundation of Spanish. Either fly in by commercial aircraft, or be prepared for a sometimes tiresome border crossing from La Linea in Spain. Gibraltar was ceded to the UK by the Spanish in 1713. Spain has long wished for Gibraltar to be returned, and there are frequent spats between Spanish and UK governments which often lead to restrictions or temporary closure of the border on the Spanish side, resulting in extremely long border queues.
“The Rock”, as it is known, covers a very modest area of 6.5 acres, and it is said that there is more road inside the Rock than outside, creating a gargantuan Swiss cheese. Its strategic value at the gateway to the Med has ensured a large military presence over hundreds of years, and the constant border friction has compelled both civilians and military to be innovative in the design of the Rock’s services over time. Thus on entry from the Spanish mainland by vehicle or by foot, you will cross the main airport runway with the sea at either end.
Called “North Front”, your safety over the tarmac is assured by the traffic lights and a miniscule barrier! Meanwhile, those flying to the Rock are often greeted by a tricky landing, depending on the wind direction, and the vigorous testing of the aircraft braking system! The airport does have a dedicated rescue craft!
Included in the daily weather forecast for the “Rock” is the amount of cloud generated by the 426 meters of granite towering above. The cloud has become known locally as “The Levanter” after the wind that generates it. Large amounts of cloud gives the spectacular impression that the Rock itself is on fire (see the attached photograph). It is possible to undertake a mind-blowing tour of the inside of the Rock to see incredible First World War defences and storage areas carved from the solid rock. A fascinating and heartbreaking view of the past is seen in the wartime soldiers’ hutted accommodation within the rock.
Here, homesick soldiers painted their windows, which look out to yet more rock, with views of the green fields so missed at home. Sub aqua divers should ask about Ragged Staff, a unique and challenging dive, deeper in the bowels of the Rock, where salt water meets fresh water (called a Halocline), in a vertical, sock-shaped shaft, some 40 meters in depth.
Motorhomes are not supposed to stay overnight on the Rock as there are no facilities other than the only supermarket car park! However the elevated car park at Europa Point is a wonderful spot, rarely checked, and you will find real tapas in the Spanish bars there. This area is known as the Spanish Quarter. The recommendation does come with a slight health warning - the last time I stayed there, I was mistaken for a police van, and drug or cigarette smugglers abandoned a fast boat run from Morocco due to my presence. I had to do some fast talking to extricate myself when they came asking questions! Smuggling by fast boat is a headache for the Gibraltar police but popular with some young Gibraltarians in their hunt for easy money.
A weekend drink in the waterfront bars will allow you to mix with an amazing blend of the spontaneous and smiling locals who really do know how to enjoy themselves. Policemen in British style pointed hats stroll the streets, where red phone boxes are scattered incongruously in the bright sunlight. Far above, are the famous Gibraltar apes, who will be delighted to see you – and to avail themselves of any food, cameras, purses and other trinkets you may be carrying! The cable car makes a pleasant alternative to the steep climb to them and, despite the hazards just mentioned, no trip to Gibraltar is complete without a visit to the apes. Even further above are the government’s restricted areas where shadowy organisations are said to operate electronic equipment for GCHQ.
The choice of interesting places to visit on the Rock is immense: do not miss the fascinating museum; try duty-free shopping in Main Street where you should bargain hard; St Michael’s Cave is amazing and there are numerous other attractions, most within easy walking distance of the main tourist hotels. When you have had enough, a long cool drink in Casements Square will reward you with a great view which has been enjoyed by sailors for centuries, which of course included the pretty young ladies! There are pleasant beaches for picnics too.
Finish with a tour around Ocean Village, a new luxury development and marina on reclaimed land where there are top quality restaurants. Alternatively, you can enjoy a typical British pub meal in Main Street and, if you feel lucky, you can spin the wheel in the luxurious Casino.
With something for everyone, the Rock packs a very big punch for such a tiny area and is full of the most fascinating history. And don’t worry about the Levanter cloud – it isn’t really all that frequent, but it is part of the life and culture of this fascinating British outpost.