THE RUNNING OF THE BULLS
The name Pamplona conjures up mad visions of stampeding bulls careering through narrow cobbled streets once trodden by the writer Hemingway, and now visited by a myriad of international feet challenging the bulls once more evry July. Pamplona is in Navarra in north eastern Spain. The “San Fermin” as the festival is known, is the city’s hallmark, but the old part of the city is wonderful with its medieval churches, parks and gardens which are havens of peace after the crazy noise and action of the bull running. It is traditional to don the uniform of white trousers and top, this white is broken by a red kerchief at the neck and another red tie at the waist. The sensible participant arrives in Pamplona early, and pals up with a group of Spanish men in one of the many bars which are full of the brash heroes to be. They are the experts, and run in organised packs with rolled newspapers to distract the bulls and provide a mutual defence. The cobbled streets make the bulls unsure on their feet and this can be used to your advantage especially when they are cornering. The horns of the bulls are blunted but this is a very serious business and there have been bad injuries and deaths in the past. There are several bull runs which finish in the bull ring, and eventually all the unfortunate bulls will be despatched by the colourful toreadors and matadors.
The event is very colourful and is held over several days with enthusiastic drinking and eating forming a large part of the celebrations. Navarrese cuisine is rich and traditional. The locals are very friendly and hospitable.
Hemingway is their hero as he has put Pamploma firmly on the international tourist maps and ensured the well being of the town, although several towns in this area hold bull running too. There is a named “Hemingway Square” in the town, where he is honoured once more by the erection of a striking bronze bust.
Go and watch, or if you are brave or foolish enough to take part, I wish you good luck. You should be aware that if during the bull run, you bottle out and attempt to get past the boards erected on the sides of the street to safety away from the path of the bulls, the locals, especially the ladies, will push you back into the street whilst calling you “cobarde”, a coward.
Author – Colin Sams